Jacopo Compagnoni Via Ferrata

In the heart of the Upper Valfurva, nestled within the magnificent setting of the Valle dei Forni, the “Jacopo Compagnoni” via ferrata at Forni is a modern, scenic, and educationally fascinating equipped route located within the Stelvio National Park.

The via ferrata is located on the rocky spurs near the Branca Mountain Hut, at the foot of the great glacial walls of the Ortles-Cevedale massif.

The route was designed to offer a comprehensive experience of climbing on equipped terrain without presenting high technical difficulties.

It is therefore particularly suitable as a first introduction to Alpine via ferratas, though it does require a good familiarity with the mountain environment, a sure footing, and proper use of via ferrata equipment.

The via ferrata consists of two consecutive sections—the lower and upper sections—which can also be tackled individually.

Both sections follow natural lines on the rock, with a predominantly vertical route, alternating between traverses, steps, easy sloping slabs, exposed ridges, and short, more exposed sections.

Environment and Technical Characteristics

The environment is typically alpine: it lies between 2,300 and 2,500 meters in elevation, with the possibility of rapid weather changes. Access to the via ferrata is via a moraine base made easier by a well-maintained trail. Along the via ferrata route, the rock quality is generally good, and the route is continuous and logical, with standard equipment consisting of:● a continuous steel cable;● metal steps;● handholds;● closely spaced belay points and anchors;● a short suspended walkway.From a technical standpoint, the difficulty can be classified as follows:● CAI Scale: EEA● Austrian Scale: A/BProgressing along the route does not require particular physical strength or climbing technique, but it is nevertheless necessary to possess:● a reasonable level of physical fitness appropriate for the total length of the route.● the ability to move on exposed terrain;● proficiency in using via ferrata equipment;● no fear of heights;The route is suitable for hikers with mountain experience and is also recommended for young people (provided they are accompanied if underage).

Route Description

Lower Section: The first section consists of sloping rock slabs and easy steps, with a vertical ascent that is never excessively steep. The progression is ideal for becoming familiar with the technique of continuous belaying and with the typical movements of via ferrata routes. There are some traverses and short, more exposed sections that add to the technical nature of the route without actually increasing its difficulty. The exposure remains moderate, but the open views of the valley and the surrounding glaciers make the route extremely scenic. The lower section ends near the dirt road leading to the Branca Refuge.

Upper section: After crossing the road, a short trail leads to the start of the second section, which is more scenic and slightly steeper than the first part. Here, the route follows very beautiful natural lines on rugged rock, with some passages on short, steep walls that require greater use of the arms, though the difficulty remains moderate.

The landscape gradually becomes more alpine and open, offering splendid views of the Valle dei Forni and the Ortles-Cevedale glaciers.

Overall, the route is very interesting while maintaining an “educational” style, designed to guide hikers toward a safe and informed progression.