Jacopo Compagnoni Via Ferrata

In the heart of the Upper Valfurva, nestled within the magnificent setting of the Forni Valley, the “Jacopo Compagnoni” via ferrata at Forni is a modern, scenic, and educationally rich equipped route located within the Stelvio National Park.

The via ferrata is located on the rocky spurs near the Branca Mountain Hut, at the foot of the great glacial walls of the Ortles-Cevedale massif.

The route was designed to offer a comprehensive experience of climbing on equipped terrain without presenting high technical difficulties.

It is therefore particularly suitable as a first introduction to Alpine via ferratas, though it requires a good familiarity with the mountain environment, a sure footing, and proper use of via ferrata equipment.

The via ferrata consists of two consecutive sections—the lower and upper sections—which can also be tackled individually.

Both sections follow natural lines on the rock, with a predominantly vertical route, alternating between traverses, steps, easy sloping slabs, exposed ridges, and short, more exposed sections.

Route Description

The environment is typically alpine: high elevation, exposure to changing weather conditions, and the presence of scree and moraine during the approach. The rock quality is generally good, and the route is continuous and logical, with modern equipment consisting of:

• a continuous steel cable;
• metal steps;
• brackets;
• frequently spaced belay points and anchors;
• short walkways/suspension sections in the most complex stretches.

From a technical standpoint, the difficulty can be classified as follows:

• CAI Scale: EEA
• Austrian Scale: A/B

Lower section:

The first section runs along sloping rock slabs and easy steps, with a vertical ascent that is never excessively steep. The route is ideal for becoming familiar with continuous belaying techniques and the typical movements of via ferrata routes. There are a few traverses and short, more exposed sections that add to the technical nature of the route without significantly increasing its difficulty. The exposure remains moderate, but the open views of the valley and the surrounding glaciers make the route extremely scenic. The lower section ends near the dirt road leading to the Branca Hut.

Upper section:

After crossing the road, a short trail leads to the start of the second section, which is more scenic and slightly steeper than the first part. Here, the route follows very beautiful natural lines on rugged rock, with some passages on short, steep walls that require greater use of the arms, though the difficulty remains moderate.

The landscape gradually becomes more alpine and open, offering splendid views of the Valle dei Forni and the Ortles–Cevedale glaciers.

Overall, the route is very interesting while maintaining an “educational” style, designed to guide hikers toward a safe and informed progression.

Technical Details

Difficulty: EEA – Via Ferrata A/B

Starting elevation: 2,340 m

End elevation: 2,490 m

Elevation gain on the via ferrata: 115 m

Length: 500 m

Via ferrata travel time: about 2 h

Total trip time: 3 hrs 45 min

Approach: 45 min from the Forni Refuge