Gran Zebrù from the Forni

The Gran Zebrù (Königspitze) is one of the most elegant and iconic peaks in the Rhaetian Alps, characterized by a very obvious pyramid shape.

The normal route is on the southeast slope, which is more accessible than the imposing north faces, but still severe and sustained.

From the Forni parking lot you reach Rifugio Pizzini, the classic starting point. From here, in the early morning hours, climb up moraines and debris to the edge of the glacier.

Entering the vedretta, you traverse to the base of the wall pointing toward an obvious sunken gully: the so-called "Bottle Neck." This section, about 150-200 m long, has steep slopes (up to 45-50°) and is one of the key passages of the itinerary.

Once past the gully, you reach a saddle from which the large summit snow shovel opens. You then ascend a wide glacial slope with a constant inclination (about 40°), which leads toward the upper part of the mountain.

In the last section the slope increases and you reach the summit ridge, sharp and exposed especially on the north side. From here, with a short aerial section, you reach the summit cross (3851 m).

Descent along the same route.