Valchiavenna is not just “sterile and very high mountains with large rocks,” as Leonardo da Vinci also mentioned during his stay in 1490.
It is a splendid place that offers perfect conditions to practice advanced hiking, in search of historical-cultural as well as gastronomic aspects. The possibility of understanding elements of a rural life now transformed is close at hand. One way to embrace this opportunity is to visit the delightful village of Uschione, in the Municipality of Chiavenna, located at an altitude of 832 meters.
The access to the oldest mule track route is found by going to the locality “Deserto,” in via al Tiglio (behind the train station).
To help locate the route, there are convenient signposts.
The mule track consists of countless steps. It is quite easy and walkable by anyone. It leads us, in about fifteen minutes, to the meadows of the “Belvedere” (470 m) from which you can enjoy a splendid view of Chiavenna and the entrance to the three valleys. Above Chiavenna, the village of Pianazzola is clearly visible and higher up the Dalò cross. We resume the path that goes into the woods, passing near an ancient soapstone quarry until reaching, near a fountain, a large boulder known locally as the “sass che gota,” meaning dripping rock. Just beyond, the woods thin out. Here are the huts of “contrada Zarucchi,” and immediately after those of the “Pighetti,” whose beautiful and ancient buildings form the central core of Uschione. I love walking around the plateau around which the village gathers.
There is an intense silence, broken only by the sound of fountain water.
The path crossing Uschione naturally leads towards the little church of 1609 dedicated to the Ascension.